By Matthew Dalton
PARIS -- Karl Lagerfeld, the German designer who dominated high
fashion for decades and reinvigorated French couture house Chanel
SA as creative director, has died. He was 85, though he long
refused to confirm his age.
His death leaves a void atop two fashion behemoths: Chanel, one
of the luxury industry's biggest brands, and Fendi, the Italian
fashion house owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE where he
had been a creative director since 1965. Both brands face deep
questions about their future direction without Mr. Lagerfeld, whose
outsize personality and creativity were integral to their
identity.
"We have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the
fashion capital of the world," Bernard Arnault, the French
billionaire who leads LVMH, said Tuesday.
Under Mr. Lagerfeld, Chanel resisted many of the forces
reshaping luxury fashion. The family-owned brand, which had sales
of nearly $10 billion in 2017, has refused to launch e-commerce
operations, unlike rivals Louis Vuitton, Gucci and many other
fashion houses. And Mr. Lagerfeld had only recently begun to dabble
in streetwear, a trend that has turbocharged the sales of rival
designers.
On Tuesday Chanel appeared to opt for continuity, saying
Virginie Viard, Mr. Lagerfeld's longtime collaborator, would be
"entrusted...with creative work for the collections." A Chanel
spokesman declined to say whether that meant Ms. Viard was
succeeding Mr. Lagerfeld as creative director.
At Fendi, where revenue surged to more than EUR1 billion ($1.1
billion) in 2018, the challenge is maintaining Mr. Lagerfeld's
momentum. "Now is not the time to discuss his succession," Fendi
said.
With his dark sunglasses and white hair pulled into a ponytail,
Mr. Lagerfeld stood out as one of the fashion world's most
indelible -- and indefatigable -- figures. While peers like Yves
Saint Laurent burned out under the spotlight of the catwalk, Mr.
Lagerfeld managed to straddle the fashion meccas of Paris and Milan
for decades.
He was a voracious collector of everything from music to
jewelry, a penchant that fueled his uncanny ability to stay ahead
of the design curve as trends, from 1970s polyester to 1990s
grunge, came and went. He was also a prolific photographer and
published a dieting book, which recommended Diet Coke as one of the
pillars of a weight-loss regimen.
The sheer scale of Mr. Lagerfeld's reach -- designing for two
top fashion houses as well as his own namesake label -- also made
him an archetype for a generation of designers that followed in his
footsteps.
"Karl is my favorite, my biggest inspiration as a designer,"
said Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of Balmain who is
known for his army of followers on Instagram. "He was one of the
first to say we can do luxury and be pop at the same time."
Long before designers came under pressure to broaden their
influence using social media, Mr. Lagerfeld pioneered the practice
of keeping the world riveted with his knack for bon mots.
"I'm a kind of fashion nymphomaniac who never gets an orgasm,"
the designer once said when asked how he feels after a fashion
show.
Mr. Lagerfeld breathed new life into Chanel when he became
creative director in 1983, transforming the brand from an elite, if
fusty, fashion house focused on haute couture into a globe-spanning
luxury empire. The brand now has hundreds of boutiques around the
world and sells everything from leather goods and clothes to its
perfume. He expanded Chanel's ready-to-wear offering and designed
modern interpretations of the brand's classic items, such as its
tweeds and the little black dress.
"When I took over Chanel, she was a sleeping beauty -- not even
a beautiful one; she snored," Mr. Lagerfeld said in a 2007
documentary.
"Not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an
extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the
early 1980s to reinvent the brand," said Chanel's chief executive
and co-owner, Alain Wertheimer.
Born Karl Otto Lagerfeld in Hamburg, Germany, he was the son of
a businessman and a lingerie saleswoman-turned-housewife. Mr.
Lagerfeld once claimed he was born in 1935, but researchers
discovered a birth announcement for him dated Sept. 10, 1933.
Mr. Lagerfeld was by his own account a self-obsessed, spoiled
child. He claimed to have asked his parents for a valet for his
fourth birthday. Though particularly close with his mother, she
displayed little sentimentality toward him. Mr. Lagerfeld recalled
telling her at the age of 11 or 12 that he had been sexually
assaulted by an adult couple.
"Guess what she said: 'It's your own fault. Look at you. Be more
discreet and it won't happen!' " Mr. Lagerfeld said in the
documentary, "Lagerfeld Confidential".
His mother never attended his fashion shows, Mr. Lagerfeld said,
and preferred the clothes of French designer Sonia Rykiel to his
own.
Growing up in the countryside outside Hamburg, Mr. Lagerfeld had
little interest in playing with other children, preferring instead
to sketch.
"My childhood was very simple. I only wanted one thing: to get
out of there," he said in 2017.
He came to Paris as a teenager. Walking in the street, he
happened upon a billboard announcing a design competition from the
International Wool Association. Mr. Lagerfeld submitted a sketch
for a coat and won. The French designer Pierre Balmain made the
coat and hired Mr. Lagerfeld as an assistant.
In 1965, the five Fendi sisters hired him as a freelancer. He
transformed the brand from a staid fur-products maker into a
full-fledged fashion label.
Eighteen years later, Mr. Lagerfeld was hired to run one of
fashion's elite but fading labels: The couture house founded in
1910 by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel.
"I would like to match the Chanel image to the modern world,"
Mr. Lagerfeld said shortly before taking the job.
Mr. Lagerfeld turned Chanel fashion shows into lavish spectacles
staged in recent years in the Grand Palais. For one show, he
transformed the runway into a forest, complete with trees felled in
France that drew protests from environmental groups. In his last
ready-to-wear show in October, models strode along a boardwalk next
to a beach, with waves lapping at real sand.
Mr. Lagerfeld recently appeared to lose some of the vitality
that was his trademark, even as he kept up his demanding schedule
of designing multiple collections for three brands. While in past
years he would stride the length of the runway after shows, lately
he took just a few steps out before returning backstage. When he
failed to appear for the final bow after Chanel's haute couture
show in January, the brand said he was suffering from
exhaustion.
--Ray A. Smith in New York contributed to this article.
Write to Matthew Dalton at Matthew.Dalton@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
February 19, 2019 16:32 ET (21:32 GMT)
Copyright (c) 2019 Dow Jones & Company, Inc.
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